Souq Waqif

Souq Waqif translates to the "standing market", and the name comes from its location near the harbor. The threat of flooding meant it was safer for merchants to hold their wares than to have permanent stalls that could be damaged by high water. While some form of the market dates back more than 250 years, the current site was restored by the government in the early 2000s. The goal of the market's renewal was to hold on to the historic character, with some sections exhibiting the narrow, maze-like quality that it is associated with markets in the Arab world. Unlike those ancient sites, however, Souq Waqif feels a bit manufactured, almost like visiting the market areas of Animal Kingdom at Disney World. What I mean is that market combines a degree of authenticity with modern amenities meant to make the experience more appealing. As an example, the government brought in massive air conditioning units and misting fans to cool off market patrons during the World Cup. 

Some sections of the market have the feel of a pedestrian street, with crowds wandering from shop to shop while customers sit at outdoor tables to eat, smoke hookah, and people-watch. Other areas of the market feature winding alleyways that sell spices, candy, clothing, kitchenware, and toys. There's an area devoted to perfume, with ornate containers filling shop windows. Another section is devoted to jewelry, and visitors will find tiny shops squeezed one next to the other, each selling almost identical bits of gold necklaces, rings, and earrings. Other stores were dedicated to regional goods like rugs, dates, and Arabian lamps.

Hugging a narrow corner in the souq is the "bird market." Market goers must navigate amongst the stalls filled with hundreds of the caged, colorful pets while being assailed with the symphony of chirps. We were told many of the birds are artificially colored so as to increase their sales price. Rabbits, cats, and puppies were also for sale, but the birds definitely dominated. For the higher-market birder, the souq also offered shops that sold falcons and all their accessories. Falconry is one of the traditional sports in Qatar, dating back to use of the birds for hunting in the desert. March is the off-season, so supply was a little low. These birds of prey were going for as little as $30 to upwards of hundreds. 

 

The center of the market's social scene is marked by a giant, golden thumb, a public art installation that reminds everyone of the juxtaposition of the modern and traditional here in Qatar. Oh, and there are camels. The royal family's camels are housed in the market as well. The official residence of the sheik is just across the street, so the location is convenient. At least once the day, the camels are ridden out in a parade, similar to a changing of the guard ceremony. 

The other striking feature of the souq is the nearby Fanar Center, a mosque with a distinctive minaret that spirals up into the Doha skyline. At night the tower is brightly lit, and its stately visage can caught from many spots within the market. We happened to be there close to a full moon, and the striking image of moon and minaret was breathtaking.

 Personally, I took the market as more of a site to see than a shopping destination. Many of the goods did not appear to be of the best quality or to be locally-made. But as an experience, it was wonderfully Qatari. A mix of people, socializing, in the cooler night air. The market stays open as long as there are people to shop and eat, so it's a great place to spend an evening.



                        













Location: Doha, Qatar

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