Let's Go to the Mall

You have to go to the mall! We were told that activity was a must, that it would give us our best chance at seeing typical Qatari family life. It makes sense that in a country where summer temperatures can get upwards of 110° the people want to go to a heavily air conditioned, climate controlled environment. Who wouldn’t want to escape the sun and heat and go to one of the five Starbucks? 

Doha locals have a wealth of mall options, and we had the opportunity to visit the Villaggion, part of a massive entertainment complex. The building spread out next to Khalifa national soccer stadium, the two enormous structures standing together like twin national monuments. From the outside, it had the telltale signs of shopping establishments at home: sprawling parking lots, a sandy toned exterior intersperse with muted colors, a Cheesecake Factory next to the entrance. There were also a few signs that this was different, however. The pricey SUVs, sedans, and sports cars in the parking lot were shaded by canvas awnings. A soccer ball was crashing into the corner of the building, still in celebration of the recent World Cup games. Like many American malls, the Villaggio had a theme. One shopping center in Raleigh, for example, looks like it belongs in France, complete with a mini Eiffel Tower. The Villaggio was built to look like a slice of Italy--Venice to be exact--complete with storefronts that made you feel like you were parading along the canals and ceilings that replicated a cloud-studded, powder blue sky. They doubled-down on the Venetian feel by including an actual canal where mall patrons glided along in motorized gondolas with attendants perched on the boat's stern. Of course instead of the Rialto Bridge and San Marco, you're cruising past Claire's and the Gap.

Despite its Italian theme, the Villaggio Mall gave us our best mirror of how American culture is perceived in Qatar. It became clear that the best of the U.S. came in the form of chain stores. There was iconic mall fare like American Eagle, Bath & Body Works, Foot Locker, and Hallmark. But was there a Sunglass Hut? Of course. I'm fairly certain that any mall developer has to appease the gods of capitalism by offering up a Sunglass Hut. The Villaggio even had a Victoria's Secret. I'll admit that one took me a little by surprise. And no, it wasn't some black box with a modest entrance and the lingerie hidden away. Glancing in on my way by, I saw what looked like the same interior with the same posters of models that you would expect in any stateside location. It was such a departure from my expectations that I returned later to snap a picture. I promise it wasn't creepy. There were many bastions of American cuisine as well, including Shake Shack, Krispy Kreme, KFC, Applebee's, and, of course, McDonalds. In an ode to the absurdity of globalization, mall guests can eat at the American-themed Outback. Or perhaps try out the stateside take on Asian food at P.F. Changs.

 

The mall's shopping and dining options were not limited to red, white, and blue outlets. International brands like Puma and H&M were there, too, along with many others that I didn't recognize. I checked out the Paris St. Germaine (PSG) shop, fittingly appropriate since the French soccer club's main sponsor is Qatar Airways. I also popped into French chain Carrefour, a Walmart-like store that had an extensive seasonal display to cater to every family's Ramadan needs. I appreciated how H&M modified its logo, so even in Arabic it was still shaped like the English letters.

           

Not all sections of the Villaggio felt super-commercial; there was also the luxury wing. Passing the Gap, walking under a faux Venetian archway, I stepped into the luxury wing of the mall. This section was aimed at a higher-income shopper, one who would feel comfortable on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. The lighting dimmed in this section, the ceiling height rose, and the price tags of the merchandise soared. Cartier, Gucci, and Prada, among others, were set in a noticeably more empty corridor. I did observe that these brands were not listed among the mall's shopping options on its website. Very exclusive. Speaking of exclusivity, the mall's bathrooms were segregated by clientele. One member of our group was looking for a restroom, and I pointed out a sign that was labeled "VIP Bathrooms." I figured it was just the way that the mall was referring to its customers, like how Target calls them "guests." Later, I went to the bathrooms in the food court area, which were definitely not "VIP" targeted. Qatar has a wonderful way of reminding people that there is always someone with a higher status than you. In the bathroom for the common people, I noted that one stall had a squatting toilet. It was the only location in Qatar where I saw one, and it spoke volumes about the broad swath of population that the Villaggio wanted to attract. 

In addition to all the shops and restaurants, the gondola rides, and the not-VIP bathrooms, the mall also had an indoor ice rink. Quick tip: bring your own gloves. If you don't they'll force you to buy a pair to skate. I didn't see the mini golf or the IMAX theater, but I did get to look inside the mall's amusement park, Gondolania. Yes, you can truly do anything in the Villaggio. Except take pictures with a nice camera. I spend the first part of our time snapping photos with my Nikon. One of those pictures was of two members of our group during their gondola ride. They waved at me and posed. Within seconds, a security guard walked up to me and told me I could not continue using my camera. I was welcome to take pictures on my phone, however. I admit that I was taken aback, especially since I never got an explanation why it was a problem. Was it because I took that picture of two women in our group? Perhaps the guard thought that he was protecting them from unwanted attention. But why let me take pictures with my phone? The more likely issue was my camera itself. I was told earlier in the week that the government had some restrictions on professional photographers. Namely, the did not want individuals producing content and media without government permission. For all the mall knew, I was taking pictures for my own profit. It wasn't my place to argue with the guard, so I complied and captured everything else using my iPhone.

       

The visit to Villaggio Mall was filled with great people-watching. The mall was a social place. Most of the people that I saw were in pairs, or families, or larger groupings. It seemed that visitors were there to spend time together, as opposed to just running in to pick something up. It was impossible to know if the mall patrons were Qatari nationals, expats, or visitors like myself. From what I saw in Qatar, people are free to express themselves largely as they want. They can dress how they want, speak the language that you want, and engage in a variety of social customs. Perhaps because of that permissiveness, it is challenging to understand the culture of the place. Is their culture reserved only for the ethnic Qataris, a perpetual separation into VIPs and everyone else? Or is their culture less defined by history and customs and more by shared experiences and place?

Growing up, going to the mall was an event. In Doha, it still is.