Embrace Doha

 

The logistics of our trip were handled by a cultural consultancy known as Embrace Doha. The group's mission is to showcase Qatari culture to non-locals and build common ground. In addition to running tours, they also host workshops in their culture house.  

Embrace Doha is located in Souq Al Wakra, about a thirty minute drive from downtown. Unlike Souq Waqif, the Al Wakra market was relatively quiet. Few shops or restaurants were open, and many parts looked unoccupied. 

The organization is owned and operated by women, and their store features locals craftswomen as well. The interior of Embrace Doha is designed to feel like you're stepping into a home to create a casual space to spark conversations and invite questions. 

We sat down at the floor level seating area known as a majlis. We had seen variations of these seating areas around Qatar, and they are a centerpiece of the Arab home. We were given time to relax and reflect before our cultural session began. There were three main topics that we addressed: hospitality, greetings, and dress.

Hospitality

The way that one treats their guests is a cornerstone of Arab culture. A visitor should feel overwhelmed by the generosity of their hosts. For guests in Qatar, they can expect a specific three-step welcome. First, they will be offered coffee. Our hosts carried out a tray with the dallah (coffee pot) and small cups. A cup was poured and offered to each of us. The caffeinated brew comes out first, in order to revive visitors after their journey. It is striking that the cup is so small, supposedly to allow the hot coffee to cool quickly. The host will attentively offer a refill, unless the guest shakes the cup to indicate they've had enough. There are many more customs that surround the coffee service, from who should be served first to which hand the dallah should be held. My favorite of these customs is the insult of a full cup. If your host fills your cup more than halfway, it is an indication that you are expected to finish your cup and leave.

After coffee comes water to refresh the guests, and the final offering is tea. The tea is blended with spices or fragrances and may come mixed with milk or sugar. This order coffee, then water, then tea is specifically followed, and we experienced this hospitality at multiple places during our time in Qatar. 

Greetings

How does one greet someone in Qatar? For men, a handshake is a neutral option. But if men are familiar with one another, then the more casual greeting is a kiss on the cheek. Or more specifically, three kisses on the right cheek. If the greeting is between relatives or close friends, then they may touch noses twice. Women greeting women follows the same process, though may include a hug as well. 

The more complicated greeting is that between men and women. Generally, men and women do not touch, though some Qatari women may feel comfortable shaking hands. It is best to let women take the lead--men should stand and a distance and wait to see if a woman extends her hand. The most likely greeting in this situation will involve a man placing his hand over his heart.

Dress

We also got a lesson in styles of dress, which of course vary for men and women. This part of the presentation involved some dress-up as well, with a few members of our group modeling the clothing that we discussed.

The thobe is the standard attire for men. It's a long, crisp white robe that extends to the ankles. It buttons down from neck to mid-chest, and basically looks like a really long white oxford shirt.  Interesting to note that the thobe is neither formal nor casual; instead, it is all-occasion wear. Given that all examples I saw were spotless and wrinkle-free, it is clear that a lot of care is put into these articles of clothing. Men may also wear a white shirt and pants underneath the thobe. 

Many Qatari men also wear a white head covering known as a ghutrah. This covering is folded in a triangle and held to the head with a black rope. From what I could tell, men folded their ghutrah in different ways. It also appeared to be weighted, so that it did not flap in the wind. The rope, or egal, has a connection to Qatar's Bedouin past. The cord was originally used to tie the knee of the camel at night. If the camel tried to run away, the rope would prevent them from doing so. The next morning, the herder would untie the camel and put the rope around his head. This once useful tool has morphed into standard fashion. 

While most Qatari men wear a white ghutrah, there are other options. The white one is of a thinner material, making it ideal for warmer months. There is also a red one of a thicker fabric that is more popular among Saudi men. Though not an absolute, it was a good indication between who was a Qatari resident and who was a Saudi tourist. There is a third, thicker ghutrah that can be worn on colder days.

The bisht was the final item of men's clothing that we viewed. It is typically reserved for the emir or a government minister, though it is also worn by a groom on his wedding day. It is a high honor to wear, as it is expensive. It is given as a gift, like when one was given to Lionel Messi when Argentina won the World Cup. 

The abaya, or black outer covering that Qatari women typically wear, serves as a jacket. Women may be wearing a skirt and blouse or a dress at home, and then they put the abaya on to go into public. It is traditionally black, harkening back to a romantic poem from Qatar's past. Today, women may choose to wear tan, grey, or colorful or patterned abayas depending on their preference. The sheila is the term for a women's head covering, which is worn based on religious customs.

Whether a woman covers her face in public is based on choice and situation. For example, if a woman were leaving work in the evening and did not feel comfortable being seen, then she may pull the covering over her face for privacy. With it on, she can easily see out, but her face is hidden. It provides her anonymity and protection from unwanted looks.

Women may also wear a thobe al nashel. Unlike the men's version, this article is colorful with large, flowy sleeves. The extra material on their arms allow women to quickly cover their face if they need to answer the door, for example. 

There are two other face coverings of note. A niqab is a black face covering that leaves the eyes exposed. It may be worn by women in public, especially if they expect to be around non-Muslim men. The battula is a more unique piece to Qatar's fashion. The shiny leather face mask is typically worn after a woman is married. Though it looks like metal, it is actually soft and pliable. Its main purpose to hold an indigo powder against the face, which is believed to help women's skin stay more youthful in appearance. While it is still popular among older women, it is less frequently worn today.

Dinner

After the cultural presentation, we had a few minutes to explore the souk while dinner was prepared. Souk Al Wakra is located on the beach, and the livelier section of the market is the restaurants along the boardwalk. After we walked around, we returned to a meal of traditional Qatari dishes. Unlike our experience at Jiwan earlier in the day, this food was prepared in a more homemade way. The food was placed on a carpet, and we dined family style.