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Baladna Farm and Park: Cows and Politics

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Background A decades-long conflict between Iran and Saudi Arabia has polarized much of the Middle East. Diplomatic competition intensified when new governments emerged in several countries as a result of the 2011 Arab uprisings. These rising political tensions have increased pressure on nations--like Qatar--that have tried to maintain positive relations with both sides. On the one hand, Qatar shares a border with Saudi Arabia and benefits from a strong trade relationship. Conversely, the country shares access to the world's largest reserve of natural gas with Iran, effectively tying their economic futures. Two other factors complicate Qatar's role. The nation houses the largest American military base in the region, and its strong ties with the United States gives Qatar less of a need to rely on regional allies. In addition, Qatar is also host to the largest media voice in the Middle East in the form of the Al Jazeera network. Some in the Middle East feel that the news network g

Purple Island

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Our visit to Purple Island was a way to experience a little of the geographic diversity of the country. It was perhaps the only place that was naturally green that I saw during my trip. It isn't purple. That was a little disappointing. I had to look it up to figure out its name--the island was named after an ancient dye industry. Reportedly, the maroon color of Qatar's flag came from the purple dye that was made on this island. I have no legitimate source for that claim, just an online post from a visitor--so don't hold me responsible if I'm wrong. It also doesn't really feel like an island. The water that separates the mainland from the island doesn't look more than a foot deep. In fact, I had to go back and check it out on a map to confirm that it is, in fact, an island. There are three big draws to Purple Island: the mangroves, the wildlife, and kayaking. First, the mangroves. I have to admit that I fell into the trap of overgeneralized expectations. I though

Let's Go to the Mall

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You have to go to the mall! We were told that activity was a must, that it would give us our best chance at seeing typical Qatari family life. It makes sense that in a country where summer temperatures can get upwards of 110° the people want to go to a heavily air conditioned, climate controlled environment. Who wouldn’t want to escape the sun and heat and go to one of the five Starbucks?  Doha locals have a wealth of mall options, and we had the opportunity to visit the Villaggion, part of a massive entertainment complex. The building spread out next to Khalifa national soccer stadium, the two enormous structures standing together like twin national monuments. From the outside, it had the telltale signs of shopping establishments at home: sprawling parking lots, a sandy toned exterior intersperse with muted colors, a Cheesecake Factory next to the entrance. There were also a few signs that this was different, however. The pricey SUVs, sedans, and sports cars in the parking lot were sh

Going to School

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We had an incredible opportunity to visit with the students and staff at Tariq Bin Ziad School in Doha. The school administration was incredibly gracious to host us and to give us access to a day in their life. We arrived just as students were gathering for a morning assembly in the courtyard. The space was surrounded on three sides by the primary school and its classroom wings. The paved area was shaded by massive canvas tarps spread atop tall towering pillars that rose in the middle of the courtyard like alabaster trees. Students filed out in lines that were fairly orderly, though the song 'I Like to Move It' blaring out of loudspeakers tempted many to break rank and follow the command of the lyrics.                   The school had a special celebration of reading that week, and the students were dressed up as book characters. Each class selected a book, and the student participation--and costume creativity--were impressive. Children dressed as safari animals, sea creatures,

The Three-Hour Lunch

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One of the most indulgent experiences of my life was the lunch that I had at the Jiwan Restaurant. After navigating the exhibits of the Qatar National Museum and dropping a lot of riyales at the gift shop, I traveled up to the restaurant on the museum's top floor. Before we sat down at our table inside, we checked out the stunning views from the balcony. The Doha waterfront stretched out before us, and view of the West Bay skyline was impressive. We were also able to spot Stadium 974, the World Cup venue made up of shipping containers. Jiwan is dedicated to presenting traditional Qatari foods in an elegant and contemporary way. The interior of the restaurant was classy and sleek, and a long table was set up for us in the center of the dining space. What we experienced was an overwhelming selection of food, carefully crafted, beautifully presented, and expertly served. I counted fourteen courses that came to our table, plus four separate drink options. The entire meal took nearly th